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Haute couture turns back on fur, both real and fake
By Fiachra GIBBONS
Paris (AFP) July 3, 2019

Fashion icon Jean Paul Gaultier says he could go back on fur ban
Paris (AFP) July 3, 2019 - French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier said Wednesday he could go back to using fur if he could be sure it was entirely traceable.

The flamboyant creator announced in November he was renouncing fur, a move hailed as a major victory by animal rights groups like PETA who have previously tried to disrupt one of his shows and occupied his Paris boutique.

But at his first fur-free Paris haute couture show, Gaultier told AFP that this "wasn't a funeral for fur".

He said that he did not rule out one day recycling his old furs, or using new pelts again "if everything is done right, and obviously not with endangered species.

"But for now we need to calm things down," he added.

Gaultier told French television last year that the methods used to kill animals for fur were often "absolutely deplorable".

He produced his entirely fur-free autumn winter collection Wednesday with US singer Christina Aguilera in the front row alongside French movie legend Catherine Deneuve and "RuPaul's Drag Race" stars Violet Chachki and Miss Fame.

Gaultier replaced fur with feathers in typically flamboyant fashion, with huge fluffy collars and plume-decked chapka hats, quipping, "No feathers have been killed for this show."

Pelts gave way to animal prints.

"It's fake fake fur," Gaultier told AFP, "a trick of the eye."

"I really like the feel of fur, it's absolutely magificent and so warm. But now we have that in other ways," he admitted.

"We are in an age when there is too much of everything, so we shouldn't be killing animals.

"I have a charming little pussy, and I love animals, though I draw the line at crocodiles," said the 67-year-old enfant terrible.

Gaultier said that it had been well established that animals used for fur were often not well-treated. "So I prefer not to use it any more, or maybe just recycle my old furs from 15 years ago that weren't sold so I can do something with them.

"We have to recycle clothes. It is something I have done from the beginning of my career with old jeans, cutting them up in every which way. We could do the same thing with fur. We should not be burning clothes."

Gaultier conceded that fur had a huge image problem.

"I didn't like the image of women who wore fur -- of women kept by old rich men. Thankfully women have gone beyond that a long time ago, and fur is no longer a synonyn for that."

Something rather significant was missing from the Paris haute couture shows which wrapped up on Wednesday night -- fur.

Beyond the guest appearance of American designer Ralph Rucci, there was none of the luxuriantly sensual mink, fox or sable that for decades defined the autumn winter collections of the elite Paris shows.

More significant still, there was just as little fake fur.

The clutch of couturiers who make some of the most expensive and exquisite clothes in the world seem to have made the leap into a fur-less future.

Having renounced fur in November, Jean Paul Gaultier replaced it flamboyantly with feathers in his stomping show Wednesday, with pelts giving way to animal prints.

"It's fake fake fur," the French creator told AFP, "a trick of the eye.

"No feathers have been killed or massacred for the show," he quipped.

And as the Italian designer Sofia Crociani also proved, you can create the look and feel of fur from natural fibres without resorting to synthetic faux furs that are a byproduct of the oil industry.

She created coats and dresses for her Aelis show "from knitted silk and cashmere and silk and camel hair", she told AFP.

"All the materials are natural and sustainable. We never use fur, only the skins of animals that we eat."

Crociani refuses to use fake fur or leather, saying you cannot get away from the fact that "they are plastics, which don't pass for me, even recycled."

Having dedicated a whole collection last year to fake fur, Givenchy's Clare Waight Keller has come around to the same way of thinking.

- Designers say 'No' to faux -

"I know it's a good alternative to the real thing, but I don't know if environmentally it's the best solution," the British designer said.

"I'd rather wait until there is something that feels more eco-friendly."

But she is sticking with leather and woolly shearling, "which is a byproduct of the food industry, so it is a waste product if it's not used."

While fellow Briton Stella McCartney has pioneered vegan clothes, "Fur-free-Fur" and hi-tech "vegetarian leather" which she claims is as good as the real thing, even she acknowledges there is an environmental downside.

"We are conscious that the product itself is non-biodegradable.

"We therefore encourage customers to care for their items... never throwing them away. Luxury does not mean landfill -- it means forever," her label insisted.

But for Maurizio Galante it is "absolutely idiotic" to use fake fur and skins "that come from petrol. It is not good for the planet at all. You either use the real thing or you don't," he told AFP.

The Italian used all his top-end cutting techniques to mimic a jaguar skin in satin and silk in one of the Mexican-inspired trouser suits in his Paris haute couture show.

- 'Nothing ecological about fake fur' -

Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp -- an ace recycler -- went a step further, making a leopard print bolero and turban from an old duvet cover.

For Galante, "fur almost doesn't have a place in our lives any more.

"The world has changed, and so has our attitude to climate, ecology and our respect for animals."

French designer Julien Fournie used to love to use fur but stopped five years ago because he could not be sure of its origins.

"Even if real fur is more ecologically sound than synthetic fur -- it takes 6,000 years for fake fur to break down and about 600 for the real thing -- traceability was a problem for me."

Giambattista Valli was equally adamant. "There is nothing ecological about eco-fur, it's very polluting."

Gaultier did not rule out one day recycling his old furs, or using new pelts again "if everything is done right and obviously not with endangered species.

"I really like the feel of fur, it's so warm... but for now we need to calm things down.

"We are in an age when there is too much of everything, so we shouldn't be killing animals.

"I have a charming little pussy, and I love animals, though I draw the line at crocodiles," he added.

The French fur federation said the only reason fur was absent from the runways was because of the "climate of terror" created by animal rights groups like PETA.

"The creators are afraid to show fur because of the threat of these groups," its spokesman Pierre-Philippe Frieh said.

But he claimed that a new generation of designers, including some of the hottest in fashion, are using furs and exotic skins.

"Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton have done menswear collections with fur which show this renaissance of fur in fashion," he insisted.

Frieh was lavish in his praise of Rucci for sticking with fur, but the American -- who was showing as a guest in Paris -- said he was using it "in a very hidden way".

fg-jvi-cmb-bur/nla

KERING

LVMH - MOET HENNESSY LOUIS VUITTON


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