The study, published in Nature Microbiology earlier this month, found that bacteria and fungi are responsible for the aromas and nuances that distinguish fine chocolates, and that these qualities can be reproduced in a controlled laboratory setting.
The discovery opens the door to a new era in chocolate production, with the possibility of standardizing fine flavors and ensuring consistent quality, as already occurs in the wine and cheese industries.
However, experts warn that this approach could also homogenize flavor profiles and reduce the diversity of artisanal chocolates, whose value lies in the variation created by natural fermentations on each farm.
Unlike wine, beer or cheese, cacao fermentation usually occurs spontaneously, without producers adding specific microbes. Farmers place the beans in wooden boxes covered with leaves, where bacteria and yeast transform the pulp and produce the compounds that later give chocolate its complexity.
Until now, little was known about how environmental conditions and the makeup of the microbiota influenced the final flavor.
Researchers measured changes in temperature and pH during cacao fermentations on farms in Santander, Colombia, and compared the results with beans from other regions of the country, including Huila and Antioquia.
When analyzing the "cacao liquor" produced during fermentation, a tasting panel found clear differences: while beans from Santander and Huila produced chocolates with notes of nuts, ripe berries and coffee, beans from Antioquia yielded simpler, more bitter flavors.
Because the genetic origin of the cacao was similar, the determining factor was the microbes present during fermentation.
Using metagenomic techniques, the team identified key species, including yeasts from the genera Saccharomyces and Torulaspora, which were linked to more complex flavor profiles. The scientists then created a controlled microbial "cocktail" that replicated many of the sensory qualities of premium chocolate under laboratory conditions.
With this advance, Colombia -- one of Latin America's leading cacao producers -- finds itself at the center of a debate that mixes science, tradition and market forces. Experts wonder whether a group of bacteria and fungi designed in a laboratory can shape the future of the perfect chocolate.
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